North West

Guild

Fig 1

Rod Straightening Rig by Colin Cohen,  Transvaal Meccano Club.

Screw in Bush Wheel ‘A’ and rotate Bush Wheel ‘B’ until you can feel the bent rod pushing against ‘A’.   Also slide the rod from side to side to locate the centre of the bend.   The Rod should then be as illustrated.

Screw in ‘A’ to bend the rod in the opposite direction,  at the same time holding ‘B’ as the rod may rotate.   Rotate ‘A’ and check again.   Note the direction in which the bolt securing ‘B’ is pointing as this will indicate whether you have over or under corrected.

Once Straight,  check the rest of the Rod,  if necessary fitting ‘B’ to the other end of the Rod.

Click picture for larger view

To create buckets, trace or cut out out the patterns from PDF File onto a piece of thin cardboard, cut it out, and use the template to subsequently scribe the outline onto Brass sheet metal. the buckets are fairly easy to cut and fold,  and should take only a few hours to make 10 off. On completion spray them with a flat grey primer paint (Undercoat). And finish spray to suit your model colour scheme.

The original buckets have an odd looking hole shown in the drawing. These accept something resembling a split-pin,  originally allowing connection to a Meccano chain.  Instead, drill two small holes and use fuse wire or string to tie the buckets onto caterpillar track.

Note:- the width of the finished bucket (folded) should be 25mm approx.

Click here  for full size patterns & Instruction of Dredger buckets.

Meccano Dredger Buckets (obsolete Part No 131)

Bowden Cable Terminators,  by Richard Payn - Johannesburg Meccano Hobbyists (JMH)

Having been puzzling for a while on how to make a neat stop for the Meccano Spring Cord when using it as the outer for a bowden cable operated lever.   One solution is to nip the spring cord in the plain hole of a coupling with a pair of keyway bolts bolted into opposing tapped hole - the tip of the bolts just grip the spring cord without damaging it.   Another solution uses the cord anchoring spring.   Simple bolt it to a Meccano slotted hole at the extremity of the slot - there is enough room at the other end of the slot for the spring cord to pass through.   The internal wire is then threaded through the eye of the cord anchoring spring - the spring cord will butt up against the eye.

The neatest solution seem to be to use half a grease cup.   Take the top off it and the spring cord will fit neatly in the recess and of course there is still a hole for the wire to pass through.   being threaded at the other end,  the grease cup can be bolted onto any suitable tapped brass component.

Bowden Cable Terminators, 2 by Mike Dennis.

Convert  aMeccano bolt.   By drilling a 2.5mm diameter hole, counter bored x the head depth and then follow right through with a 1mm diameter hole.  You can also use Allen head bolt.   A plastic Meccano part( used for aerials in the small kit) can be drilled in this manner.   Attach the part in place from the rear using a small silicone cllar.   Meccano now include a Bowden cable in one of their new crane sets.  It is approximatly 20cm long with a threaded metal stop-end.   Route the spring cord to destinations using right angle rod and strip connectors.-

ew Tip? Maybe yours?

Having been puzzling for a while on how to make a neat stop for the Meccano Spring Cord when using it as the outer for a bowden cable operated lever.

One solution is to nip the spring cord in the plain hole of a coupling with a pair of keyway bolts bolted into opposing tapped hole - the tip of the bolts just grip the spring cord without damaging it.   

Another solution uses the cord anchoring spring.   Simple bolt it to a Meccano slotted hole at the extremity of the slot - there is enough room at the other end of the slot for the spring cord to pass through.   The internal wire is then threaded through the eye of the cord anchoring spring - the spring cord will butt up against the eye.

The neatest solution seem to be to use half a grease cup.   Take the top off it and the spring cord will fit neatly in the recess and of course there is still a hole for the wire to pass through.   being threaded at the other end,  the grease cup can be bolted onto any suitable tapped brass component.

Flexible Coupling by Alan Wright,  Lymm,  Cheshire.

A simple flexible Coupling working on the same principles as the Meccano Flexible Coupling Unit,  it has the advantage of being more flexible than the standard part,  but the disadvantage of being suitable primarily for light,  rather than heavy drives.   The Illustration show it consists quite simply of a Tension Spring to which an End Bearing is fitted to each end.

In operation,  it is inadvisable to incorporate the unit in a heavy drive system.   The Tension Spring is a coil and if too great a torque is applied - at least in the relevant direction - the coil will tend to unwind.   With light drives however,  it would present no problem whatsoever and will certainly give a wide angle of operation.

The load is carried by a small flanged wheel part No 20b which is attached to the load shaft. This bears on a ball bearing, part 168d which is supported by the casing of a spring buffer, part No 120a. The spring buffer case is held in place by a bolt on the base plate.

Picture by Pat Bedford Meccanopedia

As described in Meccano Magazine Vol 28 Issue 04

Low Friction Bearing by Pat Bedford, Meccanopedia

Click Picture to enlarge

Lock-Nutting by Peter Clay

Here's a tip I find useful tho' I cant prove it is any improvement,  but it does seem to help. When I have occasion to make a lock- nut ie. with two nuts turned against each other, say on the end of a threaded pin or screwed rod, I put a washer,   either a standard or a small thin one between the nuts.   If nothing else, it looks better!

Transparent Flexible Plates like new! by Bob Watson

Want to make your plastic Transparent Flexible Plates sparkle like new?  

Simply give them a wee rub with Dura-Glit polishing wadding thus eraducating those annoying numerous scratches which can occur even after careful storage.   Buff with a clean yellow duster and hey presto - transparent plates that you really can see through.

Cheap Bulb Holder by Chris Shute

Here's my tip for a cheap bulb-holder. It works well for almost any bulb that can fit in the space.   

Mount a Double Bracket (part no.11) on the chassis of your model,  as shown. The free lug should be pinched in slightly.  The fixing bolt's shank helps trap the side of the bulb and provides good electrical contact. A single wire can be easily soldered onto the contact end of the bulb. Several bulbs can be fitted in this way, and the wires daisy-chained, depending on the size of the power supply.  For extra security, a miniature cable-tie or twisted wire can be used to secure the bulb in place.

Rubber Feet By Anthony Els,  JMH.

Rubber feet on models are traditionally made by using Tyres on 1/2" Pulleys.   However,  for large heavy models this can result in bent pulleys or scratched surfaces if the tyres pop off.   It is also easy to dislodge small tyres if you are not careful and not always immediately obvious which tyres have come off.

A variety of tyres of various exotic types were introduced in the 1990's.  These come in handy as feet for larger scale models.   The first type that may be of interest is a wide,  low profile motorcycle tyre.   Using a 1.1/2" pulley, Plastic Spacers and Washers etc,   a foot can be securely attached to a model.

Small "aero" tyres as found in the Concord set can also be used in conjunction with Washers an clear silicone spacers for the small models.  Note that the Screw is inserted via the larger end of the tyre.

Cam Follower by Chris Shute

Crank Handles with grips make good cam-followers. Here, three cams on a rotating shaft are made from Collars carrying 3/4" bolts with dome heads.

The Crank Handle is journalled in a Double Angle Strip, and is used here to carry a switch contact at its far end. A Flexible Strip presses against a 1/2" Bolt in a Collar on the Crank Handle, keeping the switch contacts closed until a cam lifts the Crank Handle's grip.

The slim profile of the grip and the bolt heads gives a rapid rise and fall, and the rolling motion helps minimise friction.   

A Ratchet Drive using a Multi-Purpose Gear Wheel by Chris Shute

The Multi-Purpose Gear Wheel here is being advanced clockwise by the  action of a Bush Wheel carrying a plastic Shock Absorber Pin, part No 120e, mounted loose on a locked short Pivot Bolt. The pin carries a fixed Collar and rests by gravity against the Gear Wheel. A bracket and long bolt prevent it falling to the left.  A second Shock Absorber Pin to the right prevents backward movement of the Gear Wheel. A short piece of springy wire below keeps this pin in contact with the Gear.

The squared ends of the plastic pins sit well between the twin sets of plastic teeth on the Multi-Purpose Gear Wheel. The Bush Wheel is driven via a linkage to a rod, which is struck by a roller below.   

This mechanism is used to drive a cam and switch arrangement described in my previous tip, but could also be used to advance a day-of-the-week dial on a clock.

Prevention of broken grub screws by Alan Keith.

Prevention of broken grub screws: In industry it's recognized the proper depth for grub screws is flush or very slightly recessed into the bore. This prevents breaking of slotted grubs from over or repeated tightening as the threaded bore wall provides the peripheral support required to limit deformation of the grub during tightening.

Binns Road ignored this fact as, for general purpose use, they supplied 69a grub screws that stood proud in bosses, and never made a screwdriver that would access the shorter 69c grub slots into threaded bores. Meccanoers may procure a 1/8" shank/blade screwdriver at a DIY, and replace proud 69a's with flush 69c's so broken grubs are essentially eliminated.

Start by scrapping any 69c's that don't screw easily all the way into, and through, a threaded hole - this will cull already stretched grub slots. Also reject any grubs with off-centre or overly deep slots, which weaken them. As a bonus, models also look better with flush grubs.  

Preferred Grub Screws for

Flat Point Grub Screw:- A flat point screw has a flat surface on one end and is indeed the simplest and least expensive type of set screw available. This type of screw is used for frequent relocation of parts where minimal shaft deformation is required.  

Oval Point Grub Screw:- An oval point set screw features an oval shaped point on one end. This set screw is used in an environment where frequent adjustments are needed and minimal deforming of the part is required.

Flat Point Grub Screw

Oval Point Grub Screw

Securing a Cord to a Rod by John Laycey

If the cord is to be constantly in tension the simplest, neatest and best way to secure it to a rod is by a 'Clove Hitch'.

This is a great and super easy way to tie a line. It's so unbelievably fast.

1) Pass the line around the post or bar or whatever.

2) Pass the line around the post or bar on the other side of the standing end.

3) Feed the working end underneath the second loop.

4) Cinch the knot.

The things that you should keep in mind are:-

a) leave a bit line past the knot since it might slip a touch before catching.

b)  if wiggling the standing part will loosen this knot.

See other good suggestions by spanners,  Click here for a pdf file

Rolling Hitch.   A little more secure than a clove hitch but nearly as quick to tie.

Plugable Industrial Quality Terminal Strips  by Mike Fallows

Pluggable Industrial Quality Terminal Strips 6 amp Matching male and female terminal strips supplied in 2 x 12 way lengths,  Suitable for Meccano Models & Trains plus many other electronic projects.

Current rating 6 AMP,  Can be cut to size,  Connectors at 8mm pitch,  Maximum voltage: 450V AC, Maximum current: 6A,  Diamensions 119.4mm x 20.5mm x 16.4mm.  (Also available in 10 amp ratings).  http://www.newmodellersshop.co.uk/electronics/e072_pluggable_terminal_strips.htm

A Meccano Type Face by Philip Webb

A Modified  Meccano  Spanner by Mike Dennis

Attach Parts 115 Threaded Pins long or short to the motor and mount Part 63c Threaded coupling to the body of the model.   The pins are now inserted into the Threaded Couplings and fine adjustments may be made for correct meshing of gears.

For meshing gears vertically reverse the mounting of Threaded Pins and Threaded Coupling.   This method can also be used for final tensioning of drive belt.

New Part No 64a Short Threaded coupling may be used instead of Part 63c.

Isomec drawing by Mike Fallows

Motor Mounting method for the 700 series Motor by Peter Matthews.

This modernized motor is most suitable for the Centenary Blocksetting crane or any other model. Their are many model plans that call for an E15R motor,  but they are obsolete,  expensive if you can find one,  and worst of all are not very powerful,  As  most spanners know they smell like ozone while running.   

By using a precision 3-24VDC motor  with a ball bearing shaft you can operate at just 12VDC and are so powerful that they are very difficult to stop rotating using finger pressure on the rotating shaft. At 12VDC the motor runs at about 400rpm.   A typical E15R motor,  by comparison,  at 12VDC runs between 7000 to 9000 rpm.

8s flat Brass washer are identical to Part No 38,  but not as thick.   Mini-DPDT centre off toggle switches are available from any good electronics outlet.

Less expensive nuts could replace the two terminal nuts.

Suggest AC Adaptor 12VDC output @ 500mA.           Click for  PDF file for details of build

Modernized/Improved E15R Motor by Norm La Croix.

Linear Actuator by Anthony Els,  JMH.

A linear Actuator for small models can be constructed inexpensively. An output shaft is trapped between a Rubber Collar and some Plastic Spacers that can roll freely.

When the input axle is rotated, the output shaft moves linearly under friction.   Experiment with marginally oxidised Axle rods or even Threaded Rod for improved traction.   A combination of the three Rubber Grommets (two mounted on short rods connectors) may improve grip and more effectively retain the driven Axle Rod in it's last position.

Anthony Els - Johannesburg Meccano Hobbyists (JMH)

ew Tip? Maybe yours?

There are always a variety of non-standard, off-the-shelf items that help solve problems in models. without resorting to cutting up or destroying Meccano Parts.   Mounting tiny motors in models has always been a problem.   Normally,  the face of the motor has small screws for mounting. often this means that a special Meccano-compatible bracket fitting to the front of the motor is required.   For tiny motors,  a hose clamp (Jubilee Clip) attached to the motor can be used effectively.   The end of the strap is drilled and the motor mounted as shown. (Fig 1).

For slightly larger non standard motors,  fit a suitable flanged plate with bolts.   use small Silicone Spacers on the Bolts and Nylock Nuts to fasten Bolts.   A small cable tie is required to hold the motor in place.   The silicone has flexible "give" and when mounted,  the motor remains quite rigid and well aligned.   Several holes remain available to attach the motor to a model. (Fig  2).

Click Picture to enlarge

Fig 1

Fig 2

Motorized Gearbox System suitable for Meccano from Spanner.

A miniature DC gearmotor includes 4 colour-coded planetary gearsets ( 3:1,  4:1,  5:1 and 6:1 speed reduction ratios) that you stack in various combinations to provide the high-torque,  low output speed you need for powering your working model or animation project. The high-efficiency permanent-magnet motor runs at 8,500 rpm at 6 volts to 19,680 rpm at 24 volts and is polarity reversible.   14 different gearbox combinations provide complete output speed range from 13.8 to 6560 rpm.

Specifications:- Output shaft is 4 mm (5/32") dia. x 11 mm (7/16") lg.   overall size with all 4 gearboxes install is 1-3/8" inch square x 4-1/4" lg.   Each gearset is 5/16" thick.

Motor size:- 1-3/32" dia x 1-1/2" Lg.   maximum motor torque at 24 volts:- 700 gm-cm (multiply by gear ratio to obtain output torque).   Typical current at normal load at 12 volts :- .75a.   Stall current at 12 volts:-3.9a.; at 24 volts:- 6.5a.   Maximum voltage: 24 Volts DC.

Order from http://www.micromark.com/Motors.html

Insulating bushes suitable for insulation between the components. Using 3mm Screws are ideal for electrical connections in Meccano.

The bushes are available from RS in polyester (version D); nylon (version N) or fibreglass reinforced polyester (GFP version). RS Stock No. 203-1309 Brand Silfox Mfr Part No. CAJ007 4.4 mm long & CAJ008 is 1.8mm long

If you purchase the 4.4mm long bushes, you may have to shorten them if they are too long, but according to RS data, you can get a  shorter 3mm diameter one which is only 1.8mm long overall with a stepped diameter 0.6mm long.  That should be about right for passing through a strip.

http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/spacers/2031309/

Electrical Insulating Bushes by Roger Thorpe.

Electrical Insulated Connection by Mike Fallows

I use the following method using stepped insulating bushes made from Tufnol bar together with  Silicon washer from Maplin Ref  A18GL which are most suitable for insulation between the components.   By Using a 3mm or 6 BA screw and wire tag connector  I found them ideal for electrical connections in Meccano.   Note:-  3 mm Fibre washers can be used  in place of silicone washers.

http://www.virtualmec.com/content/order.aspx

Bench storage system for Meccano model under construction by Robert Watson.   SMG

A neat & simple bench storage system for Meccano parts for models under construction.   Use a piece of 3/4” thick MDF board for the hexagon turntable base and arrange Meccano parts  centrally as Fig 1.

Cut four triangular pieces of  Peg Board about 20”” High x 9” at the base,   fabricate a simple internal frame and glue and pin the peg board neatly to framework.

Cut a piece of 3/4” MDF 11” square, drill a clearance hole on centre 4.6 mm Dia and fix  Part no 24 to Part No 118 then mount the 118 to the underside of the MDF base with 4 - large plastic washer on the underside of the 118 and secure with 4- No 8 Round head woodscrews x 3/4” lg.

Paint the top section to suit your colour scheme  and then mount onto the turntable.  Note:- the sizes are not important,  make to suit your free bench area.

Fig 2

Bits and Pieces

Bowden Cable Terminators II by Mike Dennis.

Convert  Meccano bolt.   By drilling a 2.5mm diameter hole, counter bored x the head depth and then follow right through with a 1mm diameter hole.   Allen head bolt can also be used.

A plastic Meccano part( used for aerials in the small kit) can be drilled in this manner.   Attach the part in place from the rear using a small silicone collar.  Meccano now include a Bowden cable in one of their new crane sets.  It is approximatly 20cm long with a threaded metal stop-end.   Route the spring cord to destinations using right angle rod and strip connectors.

Meccano Helical Gears Data Chart  by Exacto

Useful Data Charts for the Meccano Helical Gears,  click on picture and print off  the PDF file.

To

Joining rod without coupling by Chris Shute

To join rods at 90 degrees, without using heavy, costly brass parts, 4 Spring Clips, may be used as shown. All clips are slid towards each other to make a firm joint, especially on rusty, pitted rods, which show more friction.

Spinning by Mike Dennis known as HIM

SPINNING - setting - lubrication

The spinning is done with a 1/8" wide radiused Brass roller as you guessed running on a shouldered bolt locked into a 1/2" square x 4 " block of BMS Bar for the spinning tool.

This is set up to run ON the centre line in a 4 way tool post (or if you have QCTP one of the holders) and is set up to Zero on the cross slide to produce a consistent 0.030" deep groove.   Note:- everything has to be tight and I mean TIGHT !!    

The spinning speed is around 200 - 250 RPM and keep the roller bolt and job surface lubricated with something like SAE 90 gear oil.  They should only take about 2 -3 minutes with practice, once the depth is Zero 'd on the first.

Discrepancy in the Meccano part diameter should be checked each time the wheels are fitted by touching the OD with the spinning roller, and Zero the cross slide again to take account of it as and if necessary.   

TOOLING

1. The mandrel and pressure plate are made from two x 1" long Faced off 3" Dia blocks of HE 30 which have clean and parallel faces.

2. One (The Mandrel) is bored through 4.1mm Dia and 3/8" dia Counterbored x 5/16" deep on the outer face to fit 19a bosses. --

3. A  Standard Collar is fitted on the centre of a 1 1/2" long  Axle with a short grubscrew.

This is a centring tool which fits in the counterbore to hold bossless wheels true and the other end of the axle fits in the Pressure Block. -- It is not needed for centring bossed wheels so it is exchanged for a 1 1/2" or 2" axle rod instead.      

4. The second block is the pressure block - This has a 4.1mm Dia hole through it for the axle to engage in and a BS 4 Centre drilled face for ( preferably ) a rolling centre in the tailstock.    

Pressure is applied to the assembly with the desired wheel sandwiched between the blocks from the tailstock to stop wheel rotation. -- The tailstock should be locked on the bed with sufficient barrel travel to allow release of the pressure block and wheel after grooving is carried out.  

Clean off the oil with Turpentine and clean up - OR use Cellulose thinners if the  paint finish is poor,  re-paint to choice of colour.

White ring tyres supplied by Dave Taylor at www.meccanoman.co.uk   Simples.

New side plate 700 series motor  by Bob Thompson

A simple to construct side plate Motor mounting using the 700 series Meccano Motor,  Parts list as per table below.

Tip:- Pack all boss holes in part Nos 62b with cotton wool and load with oil, replenish the oil as necessary.

Latest Modification - P/No 508 added to give positive terminal Insulation.

If you wish to add a switch see Tip182  and refer to PDF file for full details by Norm La Croix.   

Mini-DPDT centre off toggle switches are available from any good electronics outlet.

.

Click for  here PDF file for details of build

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Meccano Hints & Tips

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Terminal Nuts  from old MK 13 amp plugs by Dave Oliver NWMG

Save those old MK 13 amp plugs and salvage the Terminal nuts for use on  Meccano models. Removal Terminal nuts from plug  and  using  a  5/32” whitworth  tap, re-tap   and hay presto you have professional looking terminal nuts.

Meccano Electrics  (Part A) by Andrew Knox. (ISM 1061) FRSE FIEE FIMechE

A short series of articles than may easily be included in Meccano models. Major topics to be covered are:-

1. Introduction and basic terminology.

2. Transformers.

3. Switches and Diodes (Part A): Basic control circuits

4. Light-emitting diodes.

5. Motors and Batteries.

6. Switches and Diodes (Part B): Hysteeresis and rectification.

7. Variable voltage supplies and heatsinks.

8. Microprocessor control and the “H” bridge.

9. Infrared and radio control.

Part B will be published shortly.

Click here for PDF file

Steel Screwed Rod by Tim Robinson California USA

Scaling Model Plans by Gregg Webb & Richard Payn.

have made loads of screwed rods by starting with 8-32 steel allthread which is readily available and dirt cheap here in the US.  It has the same pitch as 5/32” whitworth but is slightly larger diameter.

I clamp a die holder in the vice, put the rod in the chuck of a handheld drill, run a line of thread cutting lubricant down the rod, then run it through the die.  a 3ft length takes just a couple of minutes.

These days after cutting it to the desired lengths I then radius the ends on the lathe, but that's a luxury that's not essential.

I don't like the solid brass repros because they are quite a bit softer and rarely dead straight.

Gregg Webb

An excellent tip is to use CorelDraw by Importing an image oy your subject then enlarge it to your scale size.   you can then set it to mark off lengths between points on the model pretty clearly.   Cover the thing with them, then print with shrink to fit on A$.   If needs be,  repeate ad nauseam with sub assemblies.

Richard Payn.

A meccano friend had my original model plan blown up to make it the same size as the model i'm building.   I also favour a model-size drawing when building a near scale model.   It is much easier method than using a scale rule off different sized drawing,  using a calculator, slide rule or any other method requiring maths.

Some Facts  (Nothing to do with Meccano but do have a laugh) by #@~%##

ClickPicture for PDF file