I had a couple of these new spanners in 2008 when I bought a couple of the M & S sets.

Here is what I did to both, almost immediatly to stop the nut falling out when you need to use it.      

Method:-

1. Fit a nut and bolt tight to the *box end*  

2.  Cut one side only to about 1/8" deep to the edge of the nut using a *thin* junior hacksaw blade or slitting saw at the back.

3.  Bend the side piece inwards to form the stop.

A small portable vice will be handy to complete the above operations. This mod is enough to hold the nut without using messy methods like plasticine, gloop or blue tack etc etc.

Short Worms (Maggots) By Rob Mitchell SMG

A Standard worm (part 32) can be reduced to about half the helix length for a more compact part and without reducing its usefulness.

Note:-There’s is only a small part of the helix in actual contact anyway!

Bowden Cable by Anon

A Bowden cable can be made by using a strong fuse wire inside Spring cord Part No 58.

For more infomation on Bowden cables & hydrulics go to:- http://www.internationalmeccanomen.org.uk/REFERENCES/SpannerArchives/hydraulics.html

Ready made Turntable by Mike Fallows

A Plastic TV Turntable or Lazy Susan are ideal for use as a turntable for  Meccanograph tables and display uses.

To protect electric motor you should always use a friction clutch, wherever possible, usually in the first gear in a train.

To bend flexible plates, bolt or Skin Pin a perforated strip on the flexible plate with a flat girder on the underside of the plate, so that one edge is on the line along which the plate is to be bent.   The plate can then be bent to the desired angle over the straight edge.

Should you require a larger radius,  bolt the flexible plate between a perforated strip and an angle girder.

Note:- Skin Pins are 5/32” Diameter for Meccano

Electric Motor Protection from Spanner

Flexible plate bending Jig by Mike Fallows

Time for a Tea Break

For a Meccano Mug by Chris Vine

Go to:-http://www.liverpoolshop.com/product/meccano-liverbird-mug

To build a Tea bag agitator

Go to:-http://www.duckology.co.uk/stuff/2008/teabagagitatorplans/teabagagitatorplans.pdf

Skin Pins by Mike Fallows

Skin Pins are temporary sheet metal Fasteners to facilitate assembly by clamping parts and then removing after bolting around the skin pin.

These are used extensively in the Aircraft & Sheet metal trades.

I have found them very handy to temporary clamp Meccano components quickly together to assist in the build prior and during the bolting up stages or to quickly visualise a particular set up.   A typical use can be seen in Tip 047 below.

Note:- Skin Pins are 5/32” Diameter for Meccano, click picture for more details.

Manually operated skinpin

   • Quick and easy installation and removal

  • Re-usable and economical - no installation tooling

  • Colour coded for easy identification of size

  • Non-marking to protect the work surface

Adhesive for Meccano By C.A.Fry

Non load bearing Meccano parts can be glued together using "Pritt" Adhesive (is this called something else outside the UK) for cosmetic purposes where nuts and bolts are undesirable - although useful in clamping the parts whilst the adhesive sets. Or alternativey use masking tape (Low Tack type as used by Decorators)

During dis-assembly of the Meccano model the adhesive can be cleaned away by rubbing with soft cloth and doesn't seem to damage paintwork.

Here is a method of building Crawler Track without going to any great expense.

The Strips, which can be any suitable length are fixed to the Sprocket Chain every 3rd hole by means of Bifurcated Paper Fasteners.

The prongs of these are trimmed for neatness before bending to clear the Sprocket Wheel teeth.

Tracks built to this design featured in a few Meccano Magazine models in the 1960's.

Inexpensive Crawler Track By John Bader

Motor oil is reasonably thick and should ooze into springs as they are wound and released.   However thin oil will cause a vacuum attraction between spring coils and cause then to unwind unevenly.

I think that is why Meccano sold tubes of graphite grease for spring lubrication.

Probably the worst lubricant you can use is WD40. We have proved several

times at exhibitions that a long dry mechanism will run further than when it

is then sprayed with WD40.   (WD40 = Water Displacement Trial 40)?

3in1 oil is vegetable based and, I understand, will turn to a gummy deposit

when it dries out. Doesn't matter on your lawn mower and anything with big

bearings. However it worst attribute is in the presence of steam, where it

can combine with the steam to form a grinding paste. Should never be used on

any sort of Meccano steam engine (perhaps not kept in the same workshop as

1912 ones!) especially for piston lubrication.

I think clocks used to be lubricated with a specially refined type of whale

oil that was mega expensive for small amounts.  For gears on both clockwork and electric O Gauge mechanisms I usually rub the teeth with 9B pencil and then use motor oil.

Do’s & Don’t for Meccano Clockwork Motors By Owen Roberts

Brass Collars recycled from old Meccano Parts by Anon

Meccano Spanner Modified (Combi-Box-Open End) By Mike Dennis

A Tutorial by Anon

I'm sure I'm not the only Meccano hobbyist with bent rusted wheels and pulley's etc  But still have one part that is good.

If you have a small lathe ( I have a Myford) the hubs make great Part No 59 collars,   I'm not the first to think of this, but I wanted to pass it on.

The set screw side goes right in the 3 jaw chuck,  the "crimp" on the other side is removed with one pass of the tool, I stop the lathe, the wheel or pulley will slip right off.  If you fit a Saddle stop you can adjust the stop to the required length of collar you need.   You can then machine face to the length you want.  To space the set screw hole so it is central, use a mandrel or a chuck internal stop.  

Small Clutch by Richard Watson

Tyre P/N 142n or 142m makes a good small clutch.   This is the one that fits on two plastic spacers P/N 38a.   You only use one ( or the boss of one of the clutch plates).   Squeezing the tyre between the clutch plates makes it go into a barrel shape so that you do not need a separate spring and you can easily adjust the torque transmitted.

Non Slip Actuating  Levers by Richard Watson

The New Tri-flat rods are very useful for rotating control rods because the actuating levers will not slip.   You can get 60 degree angles using double tapped coupling, but to get a right angle,  you can use a threaded coupling secured with a grub screw in its longitudinal threaded bore for one of the leavers which operate your mechanism.   The method can also be used for the King Pins of some steering gears found on manual models.   

Is picture shows the gear change on a crane. It also shows another useful device. The operating lever is pivoted, and the lower end fits between the the projections (plastic spacers 38b bolted to a close-holed strip) to hold the gears firmly in and out of mesh.  Usually I used this the other way up -  with the rotating rod at the bottom.

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Come on you Spanners make the next Hint or Tip yours.

Excellent Universal Coupling  by Jack A. Brown ?

Stuck for a Universal coupling P/N 140.   Try the following,  by using 2- P/N 116a & 1 P/N 168d you can make your own Universal coupling.    Any backlash can be reduced by chamfering and polishing the inside of the holes where the ball is seated,  Trap the ball by gently squeezing  the flanges with finger pressure to the extreme ends.  Lubricate with a motor grade oil occasionally during use.   Remember Its cheaper, smoother, and less backlash than a P/N 140.   It also works up to and beyond 60 degrees and shoulder bolts are not required.

DO IT YOURSELF Meccano Parts

Surplus Meccano Parts can be made into several part as follows, using a marking out scriber,  Centre punch,   Hammer, Engineers vice,  Hacksaw,  Tin Snips,  Small File and a 5/32” Whitney type hand punch or Drill.

Part No 214 can be made in several parts as shown below.

Part No 90a can be formed to make a Pentagonal Segment with an included angle of 72 Degrees.

Ball Catch as shown in Meccano Magazine Vol 30 Issue 02 picture from  MeccanoPedia

Parts list for

Bale Assembly only

1 - 12

1 - 37

1 - 37a

1 - 37c

1 - 37h

2 - 38 Std

2 - 38t Thin

1 - 51

1 - 81b

2 - 103h

1 - 120b

1 - 168d

1 - 171

Meccano Tapping Machine by Tim Robinson,  California.

If you have a lathe &  make your own brass collar why not build this superb Meccano tapping machine and take the easy road to tapping.

Click on the Picture for a pdf file  showing full details of a simple machine to build.

Joining Cylindrical Parts  by Ray Daley NWMG

To join Sleeve pieces (Part No 163) screw bolts into coupling (Part no 63) to obtain a perfect joint.

Do not bolt Perforated Strips inside as this will deform the Sleeve pieces as you tighten the bolts.

Heavy Duty  Bearing by John Brown SMG

Instead of using  a Double P/No 62b or Single Arm Crank P/No 62 use  three or four 1.½” P/No 6a Perforated Strips,  making sure they are carefully-aligned onto framework.   Add oil to the top of these strips and a reservoir of oil between will be retained between them to lubricate the shaft.

Locking Clutch by Keith Waterhouse

Good positive locking clutches can be made using Part No 28 & 29 in facing pairs as per  Sketch.

These parts can also be mounted on separate axle rod and used as a indexing device  say for a Meccanograph machine.

A home made tool by Han Van Ouwerkerk

For those of you who lack workshop facilities use a 142 J Tire shoved on a 1/4” socket spanner and use a drop of Super glue if a tighter fit is required.

Meccano Plastic Gears by Anon

It Is well known amongst Engineers that wear is greatly reduced when a Pinion is harder than the gear:   this is because the Pinion works harder,  having less teeth than the gear.   So running a Plastic Gear with a Brass pinion is well justified.   Do not run the plastic 19T pinion (Part No 26 Plastic) with brass Gears.

Know your Meccano Tyre Range & Fittings By Anthony Els

Click on the Picture for a Printable Workshop Data Chart

‘The Washer’.   Reduce wear & Friction by Anon

By Inserting a washer you will reduce wear by absorbing half of the wear itself and at the same time it will also reduce friction by creating two moving interfaces in parallel.   By adding a lubricant to the joint,  having a washer will mean that there are now two layers of lubricant instead of one.

J45 Tyres  By Stefan Tokarski

J45 Tyre will takes 2 x 2" Pulleys. See http://nzmeccano.com/image-31695

D & M Packaging Supply Ltd, supply a Sellotape Remover,  This adhesive solvent will remove sellotape and other tapes from paper surfaces without fuss. It can also help remove staining from sellotape. Supplied with applicator brush. 50ml bottle.  http://www.care4books.com/packaging/page.asp?type=cat&cid=6&pid=27

I know this stuff works,  go carefully and if the stuff damages the paper forget it.

BUT - I have used the stuff mentioned on some very old damaged Aircraft and car magazine covers and the first pages and it was OK.

According to a hand bookbinder friend I went to school with, Surgical spirit can also do the trick cheaper from any chemists shop.

I would use proper Acetone if I could get it now, but the chemist would probably dial 999 and get me arrested under terrorist laws for possibly making explosives.

Book Repair Sellotape Remover by Mike Dennis

Solvent for adhesive dressings. My favourite is a silane in an aerosol can - "Appeel". It will lift even 3M Photomount!

Sellotape Remover by  Paul J (London)

Temporary marking on models by Stefan Tokarski

D.I.Y. Bending Tool for Channel Trunnions by Mike Dennis

Coupling for a Non Standard Motor shaft by Stefan Tokarski Shaft

For temporary marking on Meccano models I use White Board marker pens,  which rubs off with a dry cloth.

When using a motor with non standard shaft I use a ‘Huco’ 6mm to 4mm coupling as an alternative to making a special coupling.  The ‘Huco’ coupling  come complete with loose insert to suit shafts from 3mm to 6mm and are available from good model Boat shops.  Richard Watson mentions that couplings are available from Maplin who also have "In-Line" ones (like big Meccano ones) including 8 SWG to 6mm.

Forming tool for making 1/2" and 1/4" wide double brackets  Channel Trunnions etc, from standard or narrow width perforated strips and Flat trunnions.

NOTE - Use a hard plastic headed hammer to avoid bruising the material.

BZP finish parts are the most practical for bending - but be warned - You MAY find that some Meccano strips will not bend up to 90° without fracturing as the material is cheaper.  Full size, scale  drawings and full details of all parts are available .

an bending quality mild steel.  -  Both bars are made from Brass bar and are 4" long -

The boss from a broken metal road wheel (186) can be cut into 2 collars. One can be a standard Meccano one and the other a Primus replica. Primus couplings are 7/32" wide (narrower than Aero Collars) and are tapped 5 BA.

BA screws can be obtained from old electrical fittings but you could use M3 instead. Purists can be put off by pointing out that many nickel Meccano models are likely to include a few of the almost identical Primus Parts.

 It is, of course, possible to make these bosses into short couplings, assuming that you can drill the transverse holes accurately at right angles and can remember which holes to tap and which to enlarge.

Meccano & Primus replica Collars by Richard Watson

Meccano Spring Cord - Three factors By Mike Dennis

1. The Rule of thumb which I generally use as a starting point is to cut the cord length to the same length as the axle shaft centres.

2. Spring Cord lengths should be determined to prevent slipping so that the cord must be sufficiently 'loaded' when applied to the pulleys.

3. Another major point to consider is that spring cord is mainly suited to permanent applications, therefore if possible determine some average lengths which will be needed for intended models and make them permanent parts.

Joining.

Everyone I encounter who has had difficulty in joining spring cord used blunt side cutting pliers to cut the cord and consequently cannot get the worm to start.   Whatever the cutting method the tool must be sharp to ensure efficient and professional looking joint.

Pedigree 'Holey' Worms are expensive when available and other replicas I have seen are not very suitable either.   Here is my simple method of joining Meccano Spring Cord which will not burn a hole in your pocket.

Obtain 10 BA Threaded rod or screws from your Model Shop or model engineering suppliers,  cut down into 1/8" or 5/32" lengths dependent on the diameter of the pulleys it is intended for.

As a general rule of thumb- For all smaller diameter where the drive pulley is 1/2" Use the 1/8" length.   If the drive pulley is 1" or larger then use the 5/32" length.

1. Fit the worm to one end using Thread Lock or other suitable non permanent engineering adhesive to no more than halfway

2.Wind the opposite end of the cord anticlockwise and let it go on the exposed end of the worm.

Do not use Super glue.

A Winding Drum for Cranes,  etc. By Mike Dennis?

Plastic internal geared Road wheels  can be modified by machining off the two inner webs on the drum section and drilling a 2 mm Dia hole at the opposite end to the gear for the cable fixing. This modification makes a neat winding drum for cranes etc,  and still allows the tyres to be fitted with no detrimental effect.

'A load of old Balls' By Mike Dennis

The outer case is a No 8 countersunk screw cup (Nickel or Chrome plated or even brass with a centre hole enlarged to 4.1mm Dia,  this can be done easily with a 4" x 4 mm dia rat tail file.

The thrush washer is a  standard Meccano washer with the balls working on the dished face.   the seven balls shown here are 1/8" (0.125”) Dia balls but you can use also use 3 mm Dia which are available from most cycle stores, model shops and model engineering outlets.

Meccano Parts List by Mike Fallows

A Handy Wall chart of basic Meccano parts (1973 issue),  Click here. For a pdf copy

Adjustable Eccentric as shown in Meccano Magazine Vol 30 Issue 02 pictures by Meccanopedia

This example describes a method of creating an eccentric with an adjustable throw.

The throw can be adjusted by manipulating the angle of the coupling.

Small Roller Bearings from the Internet, Pictures by Meccanopedia

A bearing is a device to allow constrained relative motion between two or more parts, typically rotation or linear movement.  Bearings may be classified broadly according to the motions they allow and according to their principle of operation as well as by the directions of applied loads they can handle. Click here for a printable pdf  copy showing nine examples

Automatic Reversing Sequence Equipment by Christ Shute

You know how it is at busy exhibitions:  you’d like to spend more time exploring the other models but you don’t want to leave yours idle.   Well this gadget may be able to help.   If you’ve got a model with a single motor, like a locomotive on a short track,  or a lifting bridge,  then instead of driving it back and forth or up and down,  get this machine to do it for you.  I used it to run my railway Hand Car at a Tims meeting.

The power supply for your reversible dc motor ( not an E15R) is connected via the French MR reversing switch in the usual way,  with the centring spring removed.   The switch can then be mounted as shown between two 3” x 1½” plates.   Any small motor,  powered from the same supply (or separate variable supply) can drive the large pulley,  which takes the drive via two worm reductions to the Bush Wheel.   A linkage is made from a pair of 1” x 1/2” Angle Brackets.   Beneath the attachment point on the switch lever,  a Rod and Strip connector is locked ,  its jaws clasping the spine of the red plastic arm below.   If your lucky,  the forward-stop-backwards-stop sequence produced may just fit the length of your track and motor speed.   I fitted dead sections at each end of the line with diodes,  but a pair of buffers would be a good idea too!  You can also add linkages to operate signals.

It can be motorised it with a small motor (hidden in this picture). The switch lever has no holes for attaching a linkage, but you can fit a Rod & Strip Connector over the spine of the lever (just visible through the second hole up). If you have a separate variable supply to the small motor (like a train controller) then you can fine-tune the length of the complete forward-stop-reverse-stop cycle. Using a the slotted linkage will increase the running times in either direction compared to the stopped  times when the switch lever is central.  Simpler still, if you don't require a pause between forward/reverse movement, you might be able to arrange an over-centre spring or a falling weight to flip the lever one way or the other. This would then be pushed by some linkage to the main operation.

Click Image for PFD File